“The Place Where Men that Mattered Met”
By Freda Cruse Phillips
By Freda Cruse Phillips

Taverns and saloons, coffee shops and “round tables” play an important part of our nations’ growth. The location and establishment of a tavern was as significant to a settlement’s plan as police, sanitation and fire departments are today. Budgets for public works were non existent and it was essential that officials conduct business without encumbering “the crown”. As talk of independence became a reality for the colonists much of the plans for the American Revolution took seed within the walls of our nation’s saloons and taverns. The first ‘volunteer’ militia was organized within the walls of such establishments as The Three Cranes tavern in Boston. Following the American Revolution the new country was broke, heavily indebted to France. A system known as “riding the circuit” began and taverns were used not only as gathering places and to hold meetings but to conduct court when the “judge” was in town.
The Rocky Bayou saloon, the first saloon in Izard County, was located and identified in 2009. Since then it has been dismantled and moved back to its original location at Lunenburg. The area between Batesville, the oldest surviving city in the state and Buffalo City where the White and Buffalo Rivers converge near Mtn Home, is one of the oldest continuing settled areas of the state, making the White River Valley the Jamestown, VA of Arkansas if not the entire Ozarks. Arkansas was declared a territory in 1819 and according to old deeds and land claim documents Lunenburg was founded as the settlement of Rocky Bayou a year later by Adam Walker. He had to prove he had continuously lived on the land and improved it for 10 years in order for the homestead to be granted. Sometime between 1810 and 1815, Walker is likely who built and first operated the “Rocky Bayou Saloon”.
Izard Co was formed Oct 27, 1825. The first postal station was at Wolf House, which served as the seat of jurisdiction until 1831. Situated between Wolf House and Mt. Olive, Athens became the county seat in 1830 and opened the Pine Bayou post office. Little Rock lawyer, John Paxton Houston had been coaxed to Wolf House to serve as the first clerk of the newly formed Izard County in 1825. June 15, 1836, AR was admitted to the Union. In 1842 the Pine Bayou post office was renamed Athens. Although Wolf House remained an important settlement, the post office was closed in 1844 and reopened as North Fork. Other settlements were rapidly growing including Rocky Bayou, Franklin and Wild Haws in which postal stations were established in 1847. By the mid 1830’s Rocky Bayou had a general store, sawmill, two cotton gins, a gun powder mill, a blacksmith and livery, a tannery, a cider mill, three general stores and a school. Because Rocky Bayou had a saloon, the place where men that mattered met, it became an important location in the area and in 1900 had a larger population than nearby Melbourne.When the Civil War broke out in 1861, many local men including Adam Walker (CSA) were torn between remaining loyal to the Union or fighting for the Southern cause of states rights to self govern. The Skirmish at Lunenburg, fought on January 20, 1864, is an example of such division, where family, friends and neighbors fought each other. A detail of 44 men of the (Union) Fourth Ark Mounted Infantry under Capt. T. A. Baxter attacked (Confederate) Col. Thomas Freeman’s men driving them from their camp at Lunenburg. My gg grand father William Chitwood who served with Freeman told stories to his son, my great grand father John Richard Chitwood b 1877, who passed them on to me before his death in 1974. Four Confederates were seriously wounded and two were captured, along with horses and equipment. Freeman had no head quarters and few military reports were made. He took up where he could frequently using people’s barns and homes at Calico Rock, Buckhorn, Mt. Olive and the Harris house at Sylamore with his most secure encampment at Mammoth Spring. One of the four men wounded at Lunenburg was 18 year old, William Hinkle, son of Jesse and Sarah Cole Hinkle. He died that day and was buried at Lunenburg Cemetery.
Following the Civil War, AR remained under militia rule until 1903, its first 4 Governors northerners. Union sympathizers were given positions of power with the charge to reduce or eliminate Southern sympathies which included the re-location or re-naming of towns. Former Confederates were not allowed to hold office, name their children after Southern Generals, vote or attend political gatherings. Although known officially as Rocky Bayou, the settlement had taken on a new name as documented in Civil War records as Lunenburg. The stories go that while partaking of the saloons beverages a man of German Prussian descent declared, “Name her Lüneburg, by Gott!” In 1868, Robert Case, the new post master at Rocky Bayou, did just that. The post office opened Feb. 3, 1868 and Rocky Bayou became Lunenburgh.
I can see the gathering, men of prominence sitting about the hand made stools, benches, whiskey barrels, singing ballads in their baroque Irish, Scottish, English and German. A very large man John Paxton Houston sauntering in, perhaps with his visiting brother Gen. Sam Houston, if they weren’t arguing or with a rowdy Davy Crockett and Jim Bowie cohorts of both Houston’s and Abraham Ruddell. Used at the Alamo, the Bowie knife remains in use by the U.S. Military, known as a K-Bar. One of the earliest settlers of Batesville, Ruddell lived nearly 20 years as a brother of Tecumseh after having been captured as a 6 yr old by the Shawnee at Ruddell’s Fort, KY. Certainly Jehoiada Jeffery, first settler of Mt. Olive who served in the AR Legislature and as judge over the trial of Big Charley and Chief Syllamo in the attempted murder of Jared C. Martin (State Treasurer) was here. Sam Houston later secured Jeffery’s services as a surveyor on portions of the Old Military Road (Southwest Trail), which runs through Batesville. Daniel Culp served as his personal secretary. Thomas Riggs first settler of Riggsville (Mtn View) served in the Ark. Legislature and was witness to the will of Jehoiada Jeffery certainly met his friends here, bringing his wife’s cousin, a visiting Samuel Clemens aka Mark Twain. Taverns, watering holes and places to get a bite of food dictated the paths, the routes people took, which likely included Frank and Jesse James, Cole, John, Jim and Bob Younger. The movers and shakers met here, the un-named frontiersmen who toiled the earth, bartered and traded, established
homesteads and raised families.By the time I arrived, Denny Elrod and Rick Dowdle, of the Exploring Izard County Crew (EIC.com) were water and sweat soaked from the power washing of the nearly 200 year old hand hewn timbers that once were the walls of the Rocky Bayou Saloon, where songs were sang, tempers flared, fists flew, prayers were said and men that mattered made plans, legal or not, that shaped our county, state and nation.
***To donate to the restoration project of the Rocky Bayou Saloon, visit Exploring Izard County***
Note - In the second paragraph above, the saloon is described as having been located and identified in 2009. Actually, the building has long been known to be that erected early in the foundation of the community of Rocky Bayou/Lunenburg as a tavern and has also long been credited with being the first one to operate in Izard County.







